Twenty-four hours to Lerwick
| Passage | Kirkwall → Lerwick |
| Distance | 102 nm (4 nm under engine) |
| Duration | 18 h (0.9 h of engine) |
| Wind |
B0
B2
B4
B6
B8
B10
Calm
Storm
|
| Comfort |
💨
🤢
|
Twenty-four hours beaten by the wind and shaken by the waves, with a breathtaking stop in Fair Isle.
So much for the plan to take advantage of the forecasted window for a three-day passage to Lerwick, with overnight stops in Fair Isle and Mousa, an island south of Lerwick.
All went well until Fair Isle. The wind was stronger than expected but Capsula happily surfed the waves, which luckily stayed below the forecast. Quite exhilarating actually, at least for me. Stefano woke up from his break less positive and more yellowish, with just enough energy to prepare Capsula for landing.
The coffee shop owner in Kirkwall was right: Fair Isle is just a few rocks in the middle of the ocean. But what rocks! Cliffs falling straight into the sea with sheep grazing right at the edge, arches and caves sculpted by the waves.
The pier was as rough as the scenery and swells were surging into the harbour: a challenge for Capsula's hull. Luckily, big fenders were available (we were clearly not the first to struggle here). With Capsula safely cushioned, we could finally rest.
We hadn't even removed our waterproofs when a guy appeared on his bike to greet us and invited us to join him for a coffee at the bird observatory. There is no such thing as a discrete arrival on a small island.
The observatory was a large modern building set up for birders. We were early in the season and would miss the peak of the migration. We went exploring anyway, meeting more sheep than birds. The austere beauty of the place made up for the lack of feathers.
By the time we came back to Capsula for lunch and a nap, the latest forecast had been issued. The three-day weather window had shrunk to a mere 24 hours. Riding out the next storm at that pier didn't seem a sensible option. We cancelled the nap, the night rest and the stop in Mousa, and departed for Lerwick.
A squadron of gannets greeted our departure, gliding and diving around Capsula. Some of us were clearly enjoying the wind and waves.
Despite sailing under a reduced headsail and no mainsail, Capsula delivered one of her fastest passages. Good news for Stefano, whose seasickness came back with full force as soon as we left, and for my rapidly fading energy. I spent the last 2 hours of the crossing counting down the minutes to Lerwick.
On arrival: a fully equipped pontoon, without swells and sheltered from the wind. Lerwick had already won our hearts.
Anne, Lerwick, April 2026